Every one of my 3D printing projects starts the same way: with a problem. Not a grand, world-changing kind of problem — usually something much simpler, but just as annoying.
Case in point: cable management behind my DeskPi Rackmate T2.
That need didn’t come out of nowhere. When I racked up my Minisforum MS-01 and MS-A2 nodes — using my own custom 10-inch mounts alongside network switches — it solved one problem (organization), but created another: a mess of cables. The Rackmate T2 made the next issue impossible to ignore, and that’s where the design process began.
This is how my 3D printing workflow usually plays out, whether it’s something for the home lab, the workshop, or even the field.
My 3D Printing Workflow
Step 1: Encounter the Problem
For me, every design starts with frustration. The kind where you look at something and think: “There’s got to be a better way.”
In this case, it was staring at my rack setup and realizing I’d built the perfect server rack mullet — tidy in the front, but pure chaos in the back. The Ethernet cords had a mind of their own, twisting and curling like Medusa’s snakes no matter how many times I tried to tame them. I could’ve gone online and searched for some universal cable tray or zip tie bracket, but that’s never been how I approach problems.
Part of the joy of making your own gear (MYOG) is taking ownership of the problem and crafting a solution that fits your exact setup. That mindset is the real foundation of my workflow.
Step 2: The Design Process
This is where things get interesting. Once I know what the problem is, I move through a few mental checkpoints before opening my CAD tool.
a) Think About Solutions + Investigate What Exists
The first thing I do is brainstorm. Sometimes I’ll poke around for inspiration — but for me, that means Printables.
Why Printables?
- I earn points for sharing makes, which I can redeem for filament or vouchers.
- The site has a massive library of well-documented, remixable models.
- It’s easier to navigate than some of the other file-sharing sites.
Commercial parts? I tend to avoid them. With a little creativity, almost anything can be designed and printed.
b) Gather Measurements + Sketch Ideas
Next, I grab my calipers and start jotting things down. Printer bed build volume is always the biggest limitation — if a part doesn’t fit, I either redesign it smaller or split it into multiple pieces.
For the cable manager, I started thinking about how to work hook and loop cable ties into the design. The simplest option would be a pass-through slot that lets the tie loop around a bundle and cinch tight. Scalable, flexible, and easy to adjust for different cable sizes.
A more complex option would be a shaped channel or bracket that locks the tie in place and forces the cables to follow a certain path. That would look cleaner but might be over-engineered for what’s essentially just holding wires together.
In this case, I am leaning toward pass-throughs — they keep the cables snug against the rack without limiting me to a single velcro length or tie style.
c) Check My OpenSCAD Repo for Reusable Modules
This is one of the secret weapons in my workflow. I keep a private Git repository of OpenSCAD modules and templates — kind of like my own personal Lego set.
OpenSCAD lets you import other .scad files directly into new designs (if paths are set correctly), so I can build off past work instead of reinventing the wheel. For example, I’ve got a parametric 1U blank plate file that becomes the base for half a dozen rack-related projects.
This step not only speeds things up but keeps my designs consistent.
Step 3: Prototyping in Plastic
Once I’ve got a rough design, I don’t go straight to a polished print. Instead, I’ll slice off part of the design or print a smaller section to see how it fits in the real world.
This is where digital assumptions meet physical reality. Things like print orientation, layer lines, and the direction of stress all matter way more than they seem on a screen.
Some of my most valuable prototypes have been “ugly” half-prints. They never make it into photos, but they save hours of wasted filament and headaches later.
Step 4: Finalizing the Design (But Nothing’s Ever Truly Final)
After a round or two of tweaks, I’ll print the full solution. Usually, it does the job — but I’ve learned to stop calling anything truly “final.”
Designs evolve as you use them. Maybe airflow isn’t what you expected. Maybe a wire rubs in a way you didn’t predict. Or maybe you discover a smarter way to mount the same part.
That’s part of the fun. Each print solves a problem while opening the door to the next challenge.
Why OpenSCAD Works for Me
There are a dozen different CAD programs out there, but OpenSCAD fits the way I think. Here’s why:
Code Feels Natural
I’m comfortable with code. Writing parametric variables and equations feels intuitive in a way that dragging shapes around a GUI never did.
Modular + Reusable
Functions, modules, and reusable parts make OpenSCAD a powerhouse for iterative design. Combined with my Git repo, I’ve got a growing toolbox I can pull from for every new project.
Portability + Simplicity
OpenSCAD files are just plain text. They’re lightweight, easy to share, and don’t come with proprietary bloat. With Git, I can sync my repo between machines, keep automatic backups, and even revisit old design versions if I want to remix them.
Cross-Platform + Open
It runs on Windows, Mac, and Linux, which makes it a true cross-platform tool. And best of all? No licenses, no subscriptions. My designs stay mine.
A Resource Worth Checking Out
If you want to go deeper into OpenSCAD, I highly recommend Programming with OpenSCAD from No Starch Press. One of the cool perks of ordering direct is that you usually get both the physical book and DRM-free ebook versions. I keep the ebooks on my phone and tablet so I can reference them while working, without lugging a book around the shop.
Rethinking MYOG: Beyond Fabric
When people hear “Make Your Own Gear,” they usually think of sewing packs, tarps, or clothing. But MYOG has always been bigger than fabric to me.
3D printing with OpenSCAD is another branch of the same philosophy. It’s still about problem-solving, customization, and creating something that didn’t exist before.
Whether I’m stitching a pouch or coding a rack mount, the spirit is the same: build what fits my needs, not just what’s available off the shelf.
If you want to see more of my take on this, check out my post on Rethinking MYOG.
Closing Thoughts: Code, Print, Repeat
That’s my 3D printing workflow in a nutshell:
- Spot the problem.
- Sketch and measure.
- Build on past work.
- Prototype, tweak, and print.
It’s not flashy, but it’s effective — and it keeps me moving forward as a maker.
The real magic of 3D printing isn’t just pressing “print.” It’s realizing that when you hit a snag, you don’t have to wait for someone else to solve it. You can design the fix yourself.
Code. Print. Repeat.
